Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires was added to my South America trip when Skyscanner showed it as an affordable option from Lima and low Airbnb costs sealed the deal.
I didn’t do a ton of research on Buenos Aires, other than seeing a few posts in Facebook groups about money exchange, and am glad I didn’t. I don’t think I would have been deterred by all the “warnings” about the city, but it may have swayed my excitement about going.
Fortunately, the power of social media and online friendships is what really made my trip. An Instagram connection happened to be in Buenos Aires right before I was going and as he was posting, I was asking a ton of questions and taking notes. He was gracious to answer all of my questions and offered tons of awesome recommendations and insight.
I also struck gold when another social media friendship became an in-real-life friendship when we discovered we were both in Buenos Aires at the same time.
I spent 10 days in Buenos Aires, here is how it went:
1 day trip to another country
2 new tattoos
1 new (very unexpected) bachelor
1 amazing new friend
109,044 steps taken
1 opera attended
6 vegan restaurants tried
1 fine dining experience
1 back alley money exchange
Cost Breakdown
Buenos Aires was the most cost-effective trip I have taken. I was shocked by how far the US dollar went, which was at once beneficial to me and heartbreaking for the residents experiencing unprecedented inflation.
Airbnb
Airbnb 10 nights: $261.00
Flights
Buenos Aires to Santiago, Chile on LATAM, with exit row upgrade and carry on luggage $250.80
Lima to Buenos Aires on JetSmart with carry on and seat selection added $284
Transportation
Uber from Buenos Aires Aiport to my airbnb just outside Palermo: $10
Average Uber within the city $3-$5
Taxis were slightly less expensive, but I had an issue with a driver not using the meter and struggling to communicate with my lack of Spanish, so I opted to stick with Uber
Uber-moto (motor bike) is also available in Buenos Aires for as little as $1 a ride, but I felt more secure taking cars
Since I walked the majority of the time I was in Buenos Aires, and took Uber in the evening, I didn’t use the public transit system, but my-online-turned-IRL friend did and said it was “fine, but might not use at night”.
Food
I am still shocked at how inexpensive dining out in Buenos Aires was. Every time I would get a bill, I was sure it was incorrect of that I was not doing to conversion correctly.
Coffee and a pastry or “pie” $2-$3
$3 got me French toast, an Americano and a water
$15 for beautiful vegan Peruvian meal with 2 mojitos
An average lunch was aroud $5-$7
Dinner (with a cocktail) ranged from $15-$25
My “big splurge” dinner was $75, and easily would have been $250 in NYC
Drinks
High end cocktails ranged from $4-$7
Restuarant and midrange cocktails ranged from $3-$6
Beer ranged from $1-$3
Currency
Argentina uses the Argentine Peso (ARS). With the current state of inflation and the Argentine economy, the USD goes a very long way. If you do any research or googling on the exchange rates and currency, you will likely get an onslaught if information on the best places to exchange, the “blue rate”, whether or not to use US dollars, etc.
Banks will exchange money at the official rate (or just below), some exchange kiosks on the street or in the mall with give a much better rate than the banks, but less than the blue dollar rate.
*Keeping in mind, exchange rates fluctuate and things surrounding this remain ever changing, this was my experience in December 2023.
“Blue Dollar” Rates
Blue Dollar AKA Dólar Blue or Unofficial Dollar is parallel dollar rate of USD in Argentina. This is the cost of buying and selling a physical dollar bill in a cueva, or clandestine financial house in Buenos Aires. This is the best price you’ll get if you are buying or selling physical bills, and the transaction is done with no involvement of any government-sanctioned or licensed entity (like a bank).
Since the country’s government introduced tough currency change restrictions on its people, a black market has emerged. In short, you can change your money at an official outlet for one price; or you can go to an unofficial trader and get it changed at the “blue” rate – which will put many more pesos in your pocket. Taking plenty of hard cash contradicts the usual advice to tourists travelling abroad, but many visitors to Argentina have been doing just that to take advantage of the black market rates.
I don’t like to travel with a bunch of cash on hand, so I had a friend that came to Lima before I went to Buenos Aires bring my some large bill cash. I was advised by my Insta-friend to seek out a Western Union and exchange there for the best blue dollar rate without having to go down a back alley with a random man on the street (which I generally try to avoid, let alone with a wad of cash).
I found a Western Union near my Airbnb, brought two 100 bills and hoped to leave with a stack of pesos, and my life. That is exactly what happened. Yup, security was pretty high and it was a slightly unnerving experience with lots of locked doors and cameras, but it was an overall easy and pleasant transaction.
The rate for 50 dollar bills and under was 900 pesos to the dollar, and for 100 dollar bills was just over 1,000 pesos to the dollar. At the time of my visit, the official exchange rate was around 350 ARS to the dollar, so this was a significant difference.
I did, indeed, leave with a stack of pesos.
Credit Cards
I found that credit cards (in physical form and apple pay) were accepted almost everywhere. Even for an espresso that was equivalent to approximately $.40, I had no problem using a credit card. There are some places and are cash only, so it is advisable to have some cash (especially if you get a really good exchange rate).
My Visa cards (Capital One and Chase Sapphire) both gave me a great exchange rate (close to the blue dollar rate) but my American Express gave a terrible rate (equivalent to the bank rate). If you are planning to primarily use a credit card in Buenos Aires (or anywhere in Argentina), I recommend making a small purchase to see what exchange rate you are getting.
USD
From what I heard and saw, USD is the only currency that will get a blue dollar rate or be accepted by businesses or individuals.
I was told by a few people that upon arrival at their hotels, they were told if they paid in USD, they would get up to a 50% discount on their stay. *Many hotels and AirBnb hosts will also exchange USD to ARS for guests (if you don’t want to take the field trip to the Western Union).
I tipped in USD prior to exchanging to ARS and it was happily accepted - I asked the first waitress if it was okay to leave dollars and apologized for not having pesos and she said dollars were very much preferred.
When I got tattoos, I was running out of pesos and the artists happily accepted USD at a 1:1000 exchange.
Of course, it is always good to ask ahead if USD are preferred as tips or payment, but it seems they are beneficial in the current economy.
Neighborhoods
The city of Buenos Aires is formally divided in 48 barrios (neighborhoods), grouped into 15 comunas (communes), which are defined as "units of decentralized political and administrative management governed by designated residents"
Had I done a little more research (or, well any) I would have realized just how big Buenos Aires is. There are so many amazing neighborhoods and little “pockets” throughout this vast city. I only intentionally visited a small portion of them, and wandered through many others without taking note of what neighborhood I was actually in, but this small sampling showed how unique each neighborhood is; in vibe, architecture, culture, food, and so much more.
Palermo
Palermo is a sprawling area comprising smaller enclaves, like trendy Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood, home of eclectic restaurants, chic cocktail haunts and quirky fashion stores.
Palermo is the most popular tourist neighborhood in Buenos Aires and is filled with cafes, restaurants, shops, and street art. The neighborhood host markets several days a week where you can find artisan jewelry, art, and food. This is a great neighborhood to grab a drink or great meal, as well as just walk around and take in all of it’s vibrancy and beauty. Great nightlife can also be found in Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood.
Recoleta
Recoleta is a strollable, affluent area known for Paris-style townhouses, lavish former palaces and posh boutiques.
I didn’t spend too much time in this neighborhood, but I did walk through it and the architecture is like stepping in to another world. It definitely has an “elevated” feel (which is why I didn’t spent too much time there) but doesn’t feel cold or unwelcoming. It it certainly worth a walk through, even if just to take in all the beautiful buildings.
Monserrat
Historic Monserrat bustles with tourists and government officials. Focal point Plaza de Mayo is ringed by iconic buildings like the pink Casa Rosada presidential palace and colonial-style Cabildo museum. The Illuminated Block, a former Jesuit complex, is now a cultural center. Eclectic landmarks on Avenida de Mayo include Palacio Barolo, a neo-Gothic high-rise, and Café Tortoni, a storied coffeehouse from the 1850s.
Most visitors to Buenos Aires will likely find themselves in Monserrat as it houses many attractions, museums, sites, and stunning architecture. I found myself here several times while in Buenos Aires, enjoying the shops and cafes and fantastic people watching.
San Telmo
Pop-up art galleries, late-night bars and street murals lend old San Telmo a bohemian vibe. Lined with antiques dealers and raucous steakhouses, Defensa street cuts through Plaza Dorrego, where a flea market and street performers attract tourists every Sunday. In Parque Lezama, paths wind around tall jacaranda trees and the Italianate Museo Histórico Nacional. Upscale tango dinner-show venues dot the neighborhood.
Unfortunately, due to a time crunch, my visit to San Telmo was more of a run-through. I wasn’t able to truly sink in to this incredible neighborhood, but I was there long enough to know it will be by first stop when I return to Buenos Aires.
La Boca
La Boca is a working-class area with a cluster of attractions near the Riachuelo River. Steakhouses and street artists surround Caminito, a narrow alley flanked by brightly painted zinc shacks that evoke the district’s early immigrant days. A cauldron of noise on match days, La Bombonera is the home ground of Boca Juniors soccer team. Modern art museum Fundación Proa has temporary exhibits and views of the old docks.
La Boca might have been my favorite neighborhood in Buenos Aires. It reminded me so much of Guatape, Colombia with it’s vibrant colors and architecture, but with the added bonus of unique artwork, a large artisan market, and live bands playing. It felt the most “authentic” to me and had a really fun, lowkey vibe I appreciated.
Sites and Things to Do
Buenos Aires has SO much to offer. I bookmarked endless museums and other tourist attractions while I was there, but never made it to most of them because I spent so much time just wandering around, and enjoying the weather. I at once feel like I did nothing and a lot in the 10 days (technically 9, since one was a day trip to Uruguay) that I was in Buenos Aires.
This is what I managed to squeeze in:
The Teatro Colón
The Teatro Colón of Buenos Aires city is considered one of the best theaters in the world. Recognized for its acoustics and for the artistic value of its construction, its current building turned 100 years old in 2008.
🗺️Tucumán 1171, Autonomous City of Buenos Aires
🕰️Show times vary, see website for more info
💶Ticket prices start at approx $3
On the recommendation from my IG friend, I bought tickets to an Opera at Teatro Colón for about $3, mostly just to get inside and see this stunning theater. Unfortunately, I waited a bit too long to buy tickets so the only ones available did not have a view of the stage, but as soon as I arrived, I didn’t need to see the stage to experience the magic of this space. It was one of the most magnificent spaces I have ever been and the audio of the opera was enough to feel like I was having a full experience.
Jardín Japonés
🗺️Av. Casares 3450, C1425EWN C1425EWN, Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Daily 10a-6:30p
💵1500 pesos
The Buenos Aires Japanese Gardens are a public space administered by the non-profit Japanese Argentine Cultural Foundation in Buenos Aires, Argentina. They are among the largest Japanese gardens in the world outside Japan.
I was planning to go to a museum on my last day in Buenos Aires, but the weather was too perfect to be inside, so I went to to Jardín Japonés instead. Even though it was a bit crowded, it was beautiful and a great way to spend a little bit of time.
Museo del Agua y de la Historia Sanitaria
(Palace of the Running Waters)
🗺️Riobamba 750, C1025ABP Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Mon-Fri 9a-1p, 2p-5p Sat-Sun closed
The Palace of Running Waters is an architecturally significant water pumping station in Buenos Aires, Argentina and the former headquarters of Obras Sanitarias de la Nación. It is currently administered by Agua y Saneamientos Argentinos.
The building alone, which occupies an entire city block, is a true marvel in and of itself, but if you have a free hour and happen up this stunning structure during it’s open hours, I highly recommend popping in and taking a look around.
Torre del Fantasma
Ghost Tower
🗺️Wenceslao Villafañe 361, C1160AEG Buenos Aires, Argentina
This building was constructed in 1910 with Catalan modernist style, under the direction of the architect Guillermo Álvarez. It's said that the tower is inhabited by a ghostly figure that wanders around at night.
This is a popular stop on Buenos Aires ghost tours and has many different storis circulating about it. Whether you are a seasoned ghost hunter or just love cool architecture, the “Ghost Tower” is worth taking a walk by.
El Boca
The small neighborhood of El Boca is a site in and of itself. It is a vibrant and colorful neighbor filled with local shops, restaurants, bars, markets, vendors and street performers. This neighborhood felt the most authentic and unique to me. The street markets are a great place to find artisan souvenirs from jewelry to sweet treats, to clothes and bags, to windchimes.
(See map above for location and more information)
Puerto Madero Waterfront
🗺️1107, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Puerto Madero is a reconditioned dockside area, where the modernised redbrick buildings that were once warehouses now host popular restaurants and upscale offices. Just across the docks, gleaming skyscrapers house multinational corporations and luxury apartments.
Puerto Madero, or “The Docks” or “The Waterfront” has a stunning view, tons of bars and restaurants (many on the higher end), street performers and bands playing on bar decks. It is a vibrant place full of energy… and tourists. This doesn’t seem to be a place too many local folks frequent, but doesn’t have the elitist/entitled/trying-to-make it-something-it-is-not-vibe.
Ferry to Colonia
🗺️Av. Elvira Rawson de Dellepiane 155, Buenos Aires, Argentina
💵Starting at approx $80 RT
While technically, this takes you to a site (and country) outside of Buenos Aires, it is worth mentioning as a “site and things to do” while in Buenos Aires.
For all the details on my day trip to Colonia, click here
Food
I feel like all I did in Buenos Aires was eat. With seemingly endless food options, from street food to fine dining and everything in between at extremely affordable (on the dollar) prices, it was impossible not to try as much of the cuisine as possible.
I was very pleasantly surprised to find a vast amount of vegetarian friendly and vegan restaurants in the city that is most known for it’s incredible steak. I happily ate mostly veggie and vegan while I was in Buenos Aires, but did enjoy some fish and duck during my fine dining splurge.
KIRA
🗺️Costa Rica 5685, C1414BTE C1414BTE, Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Tues-Sun 9a-7:30p, Monday closed
💵$-$$
Kira Cafe is a warm, happy cafe in Palerma where I enjoyed a great breakfast and happily just sat and read a book for a while. The staff was so friendly and kind and the overall vibe of the cafe was cozy and welcoming. Had i had more time in the city, I absolutely would have returned.
Salvaje Bakery
🗺️Dorrego 1829, C1414 Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Tue-Sun 8a-9p, Mon closed
💵$$
🏳️🌈LGBTQ+ Friendly
🌐Salvaje Bakery
Three Words: Fresh Baked Bread. And a really cool vibe, and great friendly service. Salvaje Bakery just has a really good feel to it. Definitely not your “standard” bakery, Salvaje has a young and funky vibe. The bread is next level, as was the takeaway pastry I grabbed (and gobbled before I could snap a picture).
TESEO
🗺️José A. Cabrera 4946, C1414 Soho, Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Sun-Tues closed, Wed-Thurs 7p-1a, Fri 7p-1:30a, Sat 7p-2a
💵$$
🥬Vegetarian/Vegan Friendly
TESEO was the perfect date night for one. The service was fantastic, atmosphere was really cool with an almost-swanky-but-not-pretentious vibe, delicious food, and beautiful cocktails. While this was a great place for a solo dinner and drinks, it would be great date night or friends’ night out spot.
The food was great, but TESEO is also a fantastic spot to just grab a cocktail.
💘Great date night spot
Chila
🗺️Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1160, C1107 Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Tues-Sat 7:30p-11:30p, Sun-Mon closed
💵$$$$
In every city I visit, I treat myself to one “fancy” dinner and Chila was one of the best I have ever had. Everything about this meal was an entire experience. From the email I received in the morning to confirm any dietary restrictions, to the incredible service, to the beautifully curated 6 course meal, everything about this meal was next level.
I was the only solo diner in the restaurant but was given just as much attention and impeccable service as everyone else. Each bit and sip was absolute magic, transporting me to different regions throughout Argentina.
This was my “big splurge” meal, and was comparatively “pricey” for Buenos Aires, but by fine dining standards, was a steal at $75 (6 courses, cocktail and tip).
Vegan Restaurants
Guille Veggie
🗺️Humahuaca 4101, C1192 CABA, Argentina
🕰️Tue-Sat 7:30p-11p, Sun 12:30p-4pm, Monday closed
💵$$
🏳️🌈LGBTQAI+ Friendly
If I could eat here every day, I would go vegan. The food, the drinks, the amazing service; Guille Veggie is plant-based perfection. This Peruvian vegan restaurant was all the amazing flavors and cooking style I was missing out on in Peru not eating red meat. I cannot recommend this spot enough, whether you are veggie or carnivore, this place does not disappoint.
Sampa
🗺️Av. Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz 769, C1414DNH Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Tues-Sat 8p-11:30p, Sun-Mon closed (Lunch service and menu available, site may not be updated)
💵$$
🏳️🌈LGBTQAI+ Friendly
I went to Sampa for lunch and had a beautiful, fresh meal prepared right in front of me as the front of the restaurant is an open kitchen concept with counter service. The meal was delicious and I had food envy of every other dish I say being artfully prepared in front of me. The seating arrangement made for easy conversation with another solo traveler and a couple also seated at the counter, so I’d definitely recommend lunch at Sampa for anyone looking to socialize with other diners.
Love in Roll
(not my photos)
⭐Vegetarian with vegan options
🗺️Aguirre 601, C1414 ASM, Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Mon-Tue 12p-4p, Wed-Turs 12p-4p, 7p-10:30p, Fri 7p-10:30p, Sat 12-4, Sunday Closed
💵$
🏳️🌈LGBTQAI+ friendly
Love in Roll was a happy stumble-upon find. I was on my way to check out another restaurant I had bookmarked, when be still my falafel loving heart, I looked up and saw this little spot. With minimal side walk seating available, this storefront restaurant serves up some of the best falafel I have ever had.
Vegetariana, alimentación consciente
🗺️Carlos Calvo 488, C1102 Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Tues-Sun 10a=5p, Monday closed
💵$-$$
🏳️🌈LGBTQ Friendly
My Online turned IRL friend and I went to Vegetaraia for lunch one day and seriously contemplated ordering the whole menu. We practiced restraint and only ordered 3 entrees to share, beer and a juice. Everything was fresh and delicious. I still dream of the carrot gnocchi and cannot recommend it enough.
Coma, Veggie
🗺️Nicaragua 5002, Uriarte 1980, 1414 Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Sun 8p-12a, Mon 8a-3p, Tues-Fri 8a-11:30p
💵$-$$
🏳️🌈LGBTQ+ Friendly
Coma, Veggie was a dinner of convenience when friends and I were wandering Palermo and decided we were hungry. Our very carnivorous friend was resistant at first, but the entire platter of empanadas we ordered won him over quickly. The restaurant is also super cute and our waiter was awesome.
Bars
Buenos Aires has so many amazing bars, lounges, clubs, and restaurants serving up everything from local beer to gorgeous cocktails. This was a city that I felt incredibly comfortable and confident going to a bar or lounge solo. I had great conversation with servers, bartenders, and other patrons and never felt uncomfortable or rushed.
With over 100 bars in the Palermo region alone, until I do far more research, it would be impossible to identify any “best” bars in Buenos, but these were some of my favorites:
Tres Monos
🗺️Guatemala 4899, C1425 Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Sun-Wed 2p-2a, Thurs-Sat 2p-3a
💵$$
🏳️🌈LGBTQ+ Friendly
It is easy to see why Tres Monos was named amongst Art of Hospo title in World’s 50 Best Bars in 2023. Unfortunately, by the time bachelor #37 and I got there (without reservations) there were no tables available inside, but we were able to snag a table outside and enjoy some unique and delicious cocktails served by our super fun waiter.
I did go inside to use the bathroom and take a peek around and can confidently say this is probably one of the coolest bars in Palermo and is worth a visit.
Art District Bar & Lounge
🗺️Costa Rica 4619, C1414 Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Thurs- Sat 8p-3a, Sun-Wed closed
💵$$
Fun cocktails, cool bartenders, and an elevated but relaxed vibe; what more could you ask for? Art District definitely delivers on everything I want in a cocktail bar, and more. There is plenty of outdoor seating, but the vibe is definitely inside and it get busy, so if you want a guaranteed seat inside, I suggest making a reservation.
Boticario
🗺️Honduras 5207, C1414 Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Mon-Tues closed, Wed, Thurs, Sun 8p-2a, Fri-Sat 8p-3a
💵$$$
A cool botanical-themed pharmacy bar in the heart of Palermo. This is the perfect example of a themed bar that does it just right. The theme is not overdone or kitsy and really works; from the bartenders to the cocktails to the decor. There was great crowd the night that I went and it really seemed like a place for everyone.
Casa Temple
🗺️Costa Rica 4677, C1414BNF Buenos Aires, Argentina
🕰️Sun-Tues 5p-1a, Wed 5p-2a, Thurs 5p-3a, Fri 5p-4a, Sat 2p-4a
💵$-$$
🏳️🌈LGBTQ+ Friendly
Casa Temple is all about the atmosphere. The food and drinks are decent enough, but there are games, frequent live music, and a great crowd, so it makes up for what may be lacking in food and drinks. Great place to meet up with a group and have a good time.
Buenos Aires may not have been on the top of my list, and was decided by convenience, but quickly became one of my favorite destinations. It was one of the best food cities I have been to. The people were kind and accommodating - even with my limited Spanish language skills.
I never felt uncomfortable as a solo traveler and found it easy to socialize with other travelers, as well as some local folx.
I very much look forward to returning to this amazing city again someday.
