Istanbul
Istanbul was a long time coming. It was the topic of conversation for years between a good friend and I, as she is Turkish and has visited the city often, though mostly in passing, when visiting family.
It is a place she always said I would either love or hate, but that I needed to experience and find out.
As I close in on my month long stay in Istanbul, I can solidly say I do not hate it.
It is not a city that I declared “I need to live here!” after being here a week (as I often do), but it is certainly a city I look forward to returning to.
I found myself surprisingly anxious about being in Istanbul solo for a few weeks, I can’t exactly pinpoint why; I wasn’t concerned about my safety or physical wellbeing, I had heard some mixed reviews and experiences but none of them seemed like anything that would turn me off and some actually added to the appeal for me.
Maybe it was my complete and utter lack of planning (this is starting to become a trend for me…), or some concerns I had about the language barrier (of course, I have been places where English is not widely spoken, but for some reason this felt like a particular area of concern for Turkey), or having been warned that “personal space” is essentially non-exist in Istanbul (I take up too much space to be trying to share it with numerous other people as is).
I also had some uncertainty about the culture. While the biggest appeal of travel to me (other than the food) is experiencing different culture and experiences, in many ways Turkey felt the furthest outside of my own I would be venturing, so far.
Whatever feelings of anxiety I was having, were outweighed by knowing I would be greeted by my friend on arrival and that she (and her Turkish language fluency and excessive planning) would be with me for my first week. I was also very much looking forward to a good friend I met in Portugal last year coming to visit for a few days before going on to Ghana.
Oh, and the foooooood.
I love the clean and simple flavors of Portugal, but after 6 weeks, I was really ready for some bold flavors and to swap out pasteis de nata for baklava.
Not long after my arrival, so many of these anxieties melted away and felt silly.
After exploring a few neighborhoods and areas of Istanbul, any worries I had about the culture were gone. The people were kind, welcoming, and open to me. The food, bar, and café scene is lively and vibrant in many areas and there is a greater amount of diversity than I expected; more so in culture than in race or sexuality, though I was happily surprised to see some more progressive expressions of identity.
I also found that, like anywhere else I have visited where I do not speak the primary language; communication was not as difficult as expected. Ironically, the only time I found myself relying almost entirely on Google Translate was on a date… but it just added to the adventure.
Was I stared at? Absolutely. Am I a 6’1”, thickity-thick, freckle faced female? Absolutely. Being stared at is par for my course, though admittedly was pretty next level in Istanbul, and my celebrity status even more elevated when my friend who is a 6’4” Ghanian man came to visit. I will take being stared at over the “hey ma’s” of NYC any day though.
Dating in Istanbul was also an interesting, and fun, experience (details in my spicy blog) and, somewhat surprisingly, of the 4 men that made it to the off-line stage, none were actually Turkish (Kurdish was the closest I came). Of course one was from NYC… we are everywhere. Huge bonus points for Turkey’s excessive inventory of tall men!
The only thing more prevalent in Istanbul than the Turkish basket ball team in my Bumble line up, and cats, is smoking. It is everywhere. Indoors and out. With very, very few exceptions, smoking is allowed everywhere in Istanbul. This is definitely something to take in to consideration if you are adverse to cigarette smoke and planning a trip to Istanbul. If you have allergies or sensitivities, be sure to pack your Zyrtec… or pick some up at the Eczane for about $4.
Getting Around
I essentially walked a pilgrimage in Istanbul over the month that I was there, covering up to 12 miles in a day on foot. Though quite hilly in some areas, it is a very walkable city and google maps is solid for walking directions. Walking the city is also a great way to discover hidden gems, restaurants, shops, and less famous sites.
Public Transit
If walking everywhere isn’t for you, or you are heading to neighborhoods a bit further away, the public transit system in Istanbul is fantastic. Being from NYC, I am always in awe of clean and efficient public transit systems, an Istanbul is one of them. It is also very inexpensive.
Individual tickets can be purchased (though not on board) and most public transit in the city will cost 15tl per ride (less than .60USD), however; if you are using public transit more than a couple of times, it is recommended to get and Istanbul Kart
A new Istanbul Kart (card) is 25tl (aproximately $1) and can be purchased at any of the kiosks located near ferry, tram, or train stations. Tapping the Istanbul Kart upon entering transit is quick and efficient.
🚻The Istanbul Kart can also be used to pay for many public restrooms within transit stations and also in parks and other locations throughout the city
The card is valid for all public transport options in Istanbul. This includes metro, buses, metrobus, tunnels, Marmaray, nostalgic trams in Taksim and Kadıköy, funicular ride at Kabataş, cable car, IDO ferries or city lines, Turyol (Bosphorus cruise), Dentur (Bosphorus cruise), TCDD railways, and HAVABUS at Sabiha Gökçen Airport and HAVAIST at Istanbul Airport. (It is NOT valid on mini buses)
🚫Public transit CANNOT be paid for on board. Always be sure to have a ticket or loaded Istanbul Kart for the fare.
Google Maps is quite accurate for public transit in Istanbul, but be sure to look at the symbol or identifier for which type of transit it is (tram, bus, train, metro) as this can be a bit confusing.
Taxis
Taxis can be tricky in Istanbul, but with a little preparedness and being assertive, many issues can be avoided.
Traffic in Istanbul is wild. It can take an hour to go 1/2 a mile, so I personally recommend using taxis sparingly and only for considerable distances of when transit or walking are not an option.
If attempting to flag a taxi in the street: the driver will likely ask where you are going prior to agreeing and letting you in the car, if they don’t feel the ride is worth it or they are not willing to go that way, they will deny the ride. 🌟If you cannot articulate where you are going, write down the site or address to provide the driver, so you are not handing them your phone while standing outside the car🌟
ALWAYS have tl on hand to pay for taxis and ALWAYS make sure the meter is running in tl. While, for the most part, drivers are just doing their job and aren’t out to get you, there are certainly instances where drivers try to take advantage of tourists
I learned this quickly when I had an instance where I was assured the driver (from the airport) took credit cards, then half way through the ride declared the machine was broken and offered to take me to an ATM. I said I would pay in Euro and to leave the meter on. Upon arrival, my meter read “440 tl” and he tried to charge me 50 euro. Luckily, I had been in Istanbul a couple of weeks at that point and knew the conversion (less than 18 euro) and called out his attempt to grossly inflate the fare.
In another instance, the driver had the meter on, in tl and still tried to say the fare was quadruple the amount in USD (my chatty friend offered a little too much info about where we were from). I had tl and gave him the exact amount on the meter.
A good way to avoid being refused a ride and to get an idea of the fare ahead of time is by using BiTaksi which is the local taxi call app. It calls a regular taxi and you still need to pay in cash, but it is much more reliable than trying to flag a cab. Uber technically exists in Istanbul, but is essentially just a taxi call app as well. Always be prepared to pay for a taxi in cash.
If paying in currency other than tl be sure to have an idea of what it should cost and establish the fare ahead of time.
The Sites
There is SO much to see and do in Istanbul and, while I was so excited to see all it, I really neglected to actually plan any of it. This lead to some hits and misses with visiting places, including, but not limited to: learning the Blue Mosque is closed for construction after walking 3.5 miles to get to it, returning to the Hagia Sofia because I didn’t realize I had already been, attempting to go to Topkapi Palace three times because I just couldn’t get my timing right (and the time that the length of the line and the amount of street food I ate the night before did not align…), and becoming the main attraction of the mosque when I accidentally got swept up in a tour group from China.
Even with all my hits and misses, I had an amazing time visiting some of the most beautiful landmarks and sites I have ever seen.
all my own photos - descriptions from Wikipedia
Basilica Cistern
🗺️Alemdar, Yerebatan Cd. 1/3, 34110 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye
🕰️9a-10p daily
💶9a-6:30p 600tl, 7:30-10p 1000tl
The Basilica Cistern, or Cisterna Basilica, is the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city of Istanbul, Turkey.
This was one of my favorite places in Istanbul, with it’s incredible architecture, art, and changing lights.
The entrance can be a little difficult to find, but the staff are very helpful and will guide you in the right direction if you get a bit turned around, like I did.
Topkapi Palace Musem
🗺️Cankurtaran Mah. Babi Humayun Cad. No: 1 Sultanahmet/Fatih
🕰️Mon-Sat (closed Tues) 9a-6p
💵Entrance fees vary based on sites but start at approx $45USD
The Topkapı Palace, or the Seraglio, is a large museum in the east of the Fatih district of Istanbul in Turkey. From the 1460s to the completion of Dolmabahçe Palace in 1856, it served as the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire, and was the main residence of its sultans
I paid the 650tl (ticket price as of 2024: 1500tl) entrance to include all sites, and am glad I did. Though the grounds and Harem alone would have been a fulfilling visit for me, and I ended up skipping the Holy Relics because the line was far longer than my patience, the approximately $35USD I spent was worth the hours I spent wandering Topkapi on my last day in Istanbul.
The ticket price does include an audio guide, but I skipped that, and just took in all the beauty and read the corresponding descriptions, which was more than enough for me.
The ticketing line can be VERY long and moves relatively slowly, so I highly recommend allotting time for the line in your planned visit. I was unable to find tickets on-line, but lucked out on my third attempt to visit and the self-service (credit card only) kiosk as open so I was able to avoid the line.
Dolmabahçe Palace
🗺️Vişnezade, Dolmabahçe Cd., 34357 Beşiktaş/İstanbul, Türkiye
🕰️9a-4p Tues-Sun, closed Monday
💵approx $36
Dolmabahçe Palace located in the Beşiktaş district of Istanbul, Turkey, on the European coast of the Bosporus strait, served as the main administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1856 to 1887 and from 1909 to 1922.
One of the most beautiful sites in Istanbul, and maybe that I have been to, Dolmabahce and the grounds were well worth the entry fee. Unfortunately, pictures inside are not permitted but this did enhance the experience since the distraction of capturing that perfect pic was eliminated.
Egyptian Market (Spice Market)
🗺️Rüstem Paşa, 34116 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye
🕰️8a-7p daily
The Spice Bazaar in Istanbul, Turkey is one of the largest bazaars in the city. Located in the Eminönü quarter of the Fatih district, it is the most famous covered shopping complex after the Grand Bazaar.
The Spice Market is a colorful, delightful, overstimulating, overwhelming, magical place filled with incredible smells, sights, and samples… so many samples.
I had read and heard that the vendors at the spice market are overly aggressive and can be hostile, however; this was not at all my experience. Yes, the vendors here are much more vocal and bold than in other parts of the city, but I never felt threatened, uncomfortable or intimidated, and actually found many of their sales pitches funny and entertaining. In my experience, just ignoring or giving a hard “No, thank you” was effective and avoided any unnecessary interactions.
If you make purchases in the Spice Markey, be mindful that everything is sold by weight, which can add up very quickly. Generally, the stalls outside surrounding the market offer better prices.
The Grand Bazar
🗺️Beyazıt, 34126 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye
🕰️Mon-Sat 8:30a-7p, closed Sunday
The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with 61 covered streets and over 4,000 shops on a total area of 30,700 m², attracting between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily.
I visited the Grand Bazaar twice, once with my female friend who speaks Turkish and once with my Ghanian male friend, and had two very different experiences.
I made all my purchases with my Turkish speaking friend, and most “sales” pitches were shut down pretty quickly when she responded in Turkish. When I went with my Ghanian-American friend… we were the main attraction of the market. Chants of “USA” and inquiries of “NFL??” (pretty sure they were talking to him). He is also very friendly and made the mistake of engaging with several vendors, which lead to some hard-to-lose-hawkers. I definitely recommend only engaging when interesting in making purchases.
Even if you are not there to shop, the Grand bazar is absolutely a spectacle worth visiting. Be sure to be mindful and respectful of stalls that ask you not to take photos.
Galata Tower
🗺️Bereketzade Mahallesi Büyük Hendek Caddesi, Numara: 2, 34421 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye
🕰️8:30a-10p daily
💵650tl (approx $21)
The Galata Tower, officially the Galata Kulesi Museum, is an old Genoese tower in the Galata part of the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul, Turkey. Built as a watchtower at the highest point of the Walls of Galata, the tower is now an exhibition space and museum, and a symbol of Beyoğlu and Istanbul.
Galata Tower from the outside is sight in and of itself, but the views from inside are absolutely incredible, especially if you time your visit with the sunset. The observatory (reachable via elevator) offers views for miles and is well worth the entrance fee and narrow stairway back down.
Galata Bridge
🗺️Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa, Galata Köprüsü, 34425 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye
The Galata Bridge is a bridge that spans the Golden Horn in Istanbul, Turkey. From the end of the 19th century in particular, the bridge has featured in Turkish literature, theater, poetry and novels.
The Galata Bridge is a beautiful central point in Istanbul that unites the old Istanbul with its more modern area. I highly recommend walking over the bridge at least once to take in all the sights, sounds, smells, and views (which are especially impressive at sunset). The T1 Tram, considered the “backbone of Istanbul” also runs over the bridge to provide access to both sides.
The area at the bottom of the bridge hosts numerous restaurants and cafes and the top of the bridge leads to the Spice Market (Egyptian Market) and Yemi Cami Mosque.
Underneath the bridge, you will find some amazing seafood restaurants.
Galata Port
Galataport is not only home to a world-class terminal, but also offers numerous entertainment options, ranging from art and culture to gastronomy and shopping.
Galataport is a 400,000-square-metre mixed-use development located along 1.2 km of shore in the Karaköy neighbourhood of Istanbul, Turkey on the European shore of the Bosporus strait near its confluence with the Golden Horn right in the heart of the city
For more info click here
Mosques
There are approximately 3,000 mosques in Istanbul. While not all of them are “attractions”, enough of them are to make it challenging to see them all. In the month that I spent in Istanbul, I was able to visit several. Each was incredibly beautiful in it’s own unique way. I have included here the ones that I visited during my time in Istanbul.
Some general info and tips for visiting the Mosques:
Most close to visitors in the 30 minutes following the call to prayer (this occurs 5 times per day at varying times based on sunrise and sunset)
Removing your shoes is required to enter the mosques, be mindful of the designated areas to remove and put shoes back on - this includes not setting your shoes down in specified areas.
Head coverings are required for woman. *I saw numerous tourists simply drape a scarf over their heads, or put a hood up, with their hair almost entirely exposed, please be respectful and properly wear head coverings.
Areas for visitors are clearly indicated and generally roped off, other areas are designated for those in prayer.
It is considered rude and disrespectful to photograph people in prayer, so remind mindful when snapping those beautiful pics.
Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque
🗺️Sultan Ahmet, Ayasofya Meydanı No:1, 34122 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye
💶25€
🕰️9a-5p every day Oct-April, 9a-7p April-Oct
Hagia Sophia, officially the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, is a mosque and major cultural and historical site in Istanbul. The mosque was originally a Greek Orthodox church from 360 AD until the conquest of Constantinople by the Ottoman Turks in 1453. It served as a mosque until 1935, when it became a museum. Located across from the Blue Mosque, which is also located in Sultan Ahmet, both can easily be seen in the same visit, along with other sites in Sultan Ahmet.
The line to enter the Hagia Sofia can be very lengthy, but does move quite quickly.
The Blue Mosque
🗺️Binbirdirek, At Meydanı Cd No:10, 34122 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye
🕰️24 Hours
💵Free
Located across from Hagia Sofia, The Blue Mosque in Istanbul, also known by its official name, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, is an Ottoman-era historical imperial mosque located in Istanbul, Turkey. A functioning mosque, it also attracts large numbers of tourist visitors. It was constructed between 1609 and 1616 during the rule of Ahmed I.
Sadly, the Blue Mosque was closed for construction during my visit, so I will have to wait until my return visit to see the inside, but the outside alone was pretty magnificent.
New Valide Mosque(Yeni Valide Camii)
🗺️ Rüstem Paşa, Yeni Cami Cd. No:3, 34116 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye
🕰️ 5a-9p
💵 Free
Just over the Galata Bridge, before the entrance to the Spice Market stands this absolutely stunning site. The outside is breathtaking, but the inside is truly stunning.
The New Mosque and later New Valide Sultan Mosque after its partial reconstruction and completion between 1660 and 1665, is an Ottoman imperial mosque located in the Eminönü quarter of Istanbul, Turkey. It is situated on the Golden Horn, at the southern end of the Galata Bridge
For more information, click here
Süleymaniye Mosque
🗺️Süleymaniye, Prof. Sıddık Sami Onar Cd. No:1, 34116 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye
🕰️8a-9:30p daily
💵 Free
The Süleymaniye Mosque is an Ottoman imperial mosque located on the Third Hill of Istanbul, Turkey. The mosque was commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent and designed by the imperial architect Mimar Sinan. An inscription specifies the foundation date as 1550 and the inauguration date as 1557.
Suleymaniye Camii is an entire site in and of itself with two tombs, a cemetary, beautiful grounds, and breathtaking views.
To learn more, click here
Grand Mecidiye Mosque (Ortaköy Mosque)
🗺️Mecidiye, Mecidiye Köprüsü Sk. No:1 D:1, 34347 Beşiktaş/İstanbul, Türkiye
🕰️4a-10p daily
💵 Free
Ortaköy Mosque or Büyük Mecidiye Camii in Beşiktaş, Istanbul, Turkey, is a mosque situated at the waterside of the Ortaköy pier square, one of the most popular locations on the Bosphorus. It was commissioned by the Ottoman sultan Abdülmecid I and its construction was completed around 1854 or 1856.
This stunning mosque has the added bonus of being set on the water, with beautiful views and being surrounded by restaurants, and food and souvenir vendors. I found this a great area to buy souvenirs since there was a large variety and friendly/not pushy vendors (as a bonus, everything had a price tag so there was no question if I was getting an added “tourist tax”).
Districts (Neighborhoods)
There are 39 districts that make up Istanbul. 25 districts are on the European side, with 14 on the Asian side. 24 of the 39 total districts are on the sea.
Each district is unique in it’s own right, with it’s own vibe, culture, and feel. I visited several of the districts and recommend visiting:
Sultanahmet
Sultanahmet is a neighborhood known for being home to the striking Ottoman-era Blue Mosque with its iconic minarets, along with the famed, mosaic-filled Hagia Sophia mosque. Adjacent Sultanahmet Square has a park, gardens and fountains, along with the Egyptian Obelisk of Theodosius and the nearby 4th-century Stone of Million pillar ruin. The popular district is home to many shops, hotels and traditional eateries.
This is where you will fine the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace Musem, Basilica Cistern, and many other sights Istanbul is known for. There are endless cafes, restaurants and shops in this area, but beware of elevated tourist prices (and anywhere that doesn’t have prices on the menus).
Kadıköy
Kadıköy is a laid-back residential neighborhood on Istanbul’s Asian shore, famed for its bustling fish and produce market offering Turkish pizza, olives, stuffed mussels, and more. On curving streets, buildings with colorful murals are home to indie boutiques, hip cafes, and Anatolian eateries. The views from the Moda neighborhood's shores stretch across the Sea of Marmara toward Sultanahmet, showcasing the skyline.
Kadıköy was one of my favorite areas to wander. There seems to be endless paths to follow, shops, cafes, and restaurants to visit. This is a busy area, that seems to be pretty crowded at any given time, but has a fun and upbeat vibe.
The ferry ride to Kadıköy also offers incredible views and is well worth taking.
Balat
Balat is a down-to-earth neighborhood of narrow cobbled streets and colorful houses, where hip cafes and cutting-edge galleries sit next to old-school neighborhood grocers. Buildings like the Greek Ecumenical Patriarchate basilica, synagogues, and Byzantine churches attest to the area's cosmopolitan past as a center for Jewish, Greek, and Armenian communities. The Chora Museum has golden mosaics and vibrant frescoes.
Balat was one of my favorite places/areas in Istanbul. It had a fun/funky vibrancy to it that just made me smile the whole time I was there. The colorful facades on the houses, adorable cafes, and fun street art make Balat a great neighborhood to visit on any trip to Istanbul.
Karaköy
Karaköy is a happening harborside area where funky cafes and late-night cocktail bars mix with traditional neighborhood bakeries and family-run shops. Ottoman-era buildings splashed with street art house the studios and boutiques of young fashion designers, and there's also a vibrant contemporary art gallery scene. The 16th-century Kılıç Ali Paşa complex includes a mosque and thermal baths.
Karaköy is a great area to grab a meal or enjoy a cocktail. With its seemingly endless bars, cafes and restaurants there is something for everyone from street food and cheap beer to fine dining and curated cocktails. I rang in the New Year in this neighborhood and had an absolute blast.
Besiktas
Waterfront Beşiktaş centers on its boisterous fish market, surrounded by a dense maze of narrow streets that are dotted with neighborhood shops, laid-back bars, and simple restaurants. Opulent 19th-century Dolmabahçe Palace and the Maritime Museum overlook the Bosphorus. Locals throng the busy Saturday produce market, while picnic spots can be found in nearby Abbasağa Park and Yıldız Park.
I stayed in the Muradiye area of Beşiktaş and it was the perfect base for my month long stay. The Beşiktaş neighborhood has so much to offer, with both modern and old Turkey elements and vibes. The neighborhood has an abundance of great bars, restaurants, and cafes.
Hamam
Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam
🗺️Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa, Hamam Sk. No:1, 34425 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye
🕰️Women 8a-4p, Men 4:45p-11:30p
💵Traditional Hamam Ritual 2400 TL
A hamam experience should be on everyone who visits Istanbul’s “must do” list. There are hundreds of hamams throughout the city that offer a wide array of experiences and price points. Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa comes at a higher price point than many of other options in the city, but offers an incredible experience I found well worth the price.
Especially as a bigger person, I can have some hesitations about experiences like this, but I felt very comfortable and embraced at Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa. I was even very discreetly and respectfully given a larger towel to “be more comfortable”. The ladies providing the services were warm and kind throughout the experience and my fellow guests were diverse in age, body, race and religion.
