Machu Picchu

Unguided

Machu Picchu is an Incan citadel set high in the Andes Mountains in Peru, above the Urubamba River valley. Built in the 15th century and later abandoned, it’s renowned for its sophisticated dry-stone walls that fuse huge blocks without the use of mortar, intriguing buildings that play on astronomical alignments and panoramic views. Its exact former use remains a mystery.

When I planned my month in Lima, I didn’t intend to go to Machu Picchu. I just wanted a “chill” month and had two friends visiting back to back which limited my opportunities to take a side trip, but shortly before I was leaving for Peru, another friend gave me a reality check and I realized I’d really be missing out if I didn’t get to Machu Picchu.

Admittedly, I was overwhelmed by all of the information about planning a trip to Machu Picchu. There seemed to be so many logistics and varying information about how to execute them. I knew I didn’t want to do a tour, and was determined to figure it out on my own, but even after booking everything, I was still unsure if I had done it all right.

Luckily, I did!

But my trip to Machu Picchu was certainly not without hiccups and blunders.

Here is how it went:

Before booking anything, I confirmed prices and availability for each moving piece: flights RT Lima to Cusco → Hotel in Cusco → RT Train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes → Machu Picchu tickets → Hotel in Aguas Calientes → transportation to Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes.

For all the information on my stay in Cusco click here

Machu Picchu Tickets:

Booked through the official government site here. Prices vary based on circuit. I opted for Circuit 1 & 4. Information on the available circuits in on the website.

Information on non-refundable ticket purchases here

Train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes:

I chose the “less fancy” of the two train options from Cusco to Machu Picchu and booked through Inca Rail. Due to the season, the train did not run the full route and the route was “Bi-modal” consisting of a Bus (Mercedes van) to the Ollantaryambo train station (and vice versa on the return).

I upgraded to a Premium Lounge ticket on my return, as I took the latest train and knew I would be tired, which brought my ticket to $92usd round trip.

⭐Booking the premium lounge ticket not only provided a more comfortable ride, but also gave priority boarding, which was a big perk with the chaos at the station on the return train

The other train option, which is said to be the nicer of the two options, is Peru Rail.

I personally, thought Inca Rail was perfectly comfortable, efficient, and the service was great.

Hotel in Aguas Calientes:

I spent one night in Aguas Calientes at Hotel Terraza De Luna, a three star hotel that was pretty no frills, but my room was huge, very clean and the front desk staff was amazing and incredibly kind.

Room was booked with credit card points, equally $77usd

Bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu Site:
The bus from Aguas Calientes to the entrance to of Machu Picchu takes about 30 minutes and costs $12usd each way (credit cards are accepted)

Tickets do not need to be purchased advanced and can be bought in person at the following address:

🗺️Av. Hermanos Ayar S/N, before the Puente Ruinas

 

Return tickets can be purchased at the site entrance as well - in case you think you want to hike back down but change your mind and opt for the bus.

The line for the buses can be very long and look intimidating, but they do move quite quickly with busses leaving every 10 minutes or so. Be sure to account for the wait time, as well as the 30 minute ride, with your timed entry.

Also consider any sensitivity to motion, as the road leading up to the site is very winding.

Hiking from Agues Calientes to Machu Picchu Entrance:

If you opt not to take the bus and walk/hike the trail up, it is a moderate climb that takes approximately 1 ½–2 hours. The hike offers stunning views and beautiful nature, but also crosses many streets the buses run on so make sure to look both ways.

I opted to take the bus up and the trail down. It was a bit challenging in the rain, but worth it.

To Guide, or not to Guide

This is absolutely a personal preference, and there are several “tiers” of guided tours available. From full package tour: booked through a company and guided airport door to airport door, to securing a prebooking a private or group guided tour for the day of your visit, to securing a guide in town prior to heading up to Machu Picchu or even hiring a guide at the bus stop or at the entrance of the site. These also come at an array of budgets.

There was no shortage of guides available on my visit and many folks were opting to hire them at the entrance to the site.

Some of the benefits of having a guide: a wealth of information about the history and geography of the area, someone to keep you on time, someone to snap great photos for you.

I opted not to use a guide, for a few reasons. I was solo, and honestly find it a bit awkward doing a guided tour solo, I like to move at my own pace and take a million pictures and just take in the scenery and architecture. I am not as interested in hearing the history while seeing the sites and can get bits and pieces as I pass tours. While the photos some guides snap are quite stunning, I am pretty good with the self timer and prefer photos of the site itself.

Visiting the Site

What to wear:

Whether you are donning your suit and tie or flying dress to capture those IG photos, athletic wear or full hiking gear to prioritize comfort and practicality, good shoes are a must. This is especially true in rainy season or if you are doing any of the additional circuits.

During rainy season, the rain can be relentless and can come out of nowhere. The day that I visited (late November) was sunshine and clear all morning, then pummeling rain as I was leaving. A good rain jacket with a hood is recommended. There are local vendors selling ponchos near the entrance, but those won’t be helpful if you get caught in an unexpected rain after the entrance.

Sunscreen is always a good idea, regardless of weather, but especially important in the summer and sunny season.

What to bring:

Passport/ID

Tickets

Water/Snack (both are available for purchase at reasonable prices at the cafe on site)

Camera

🚻Bathrooms:

There are no bathrooms after the entrance, so be sure to use it before entering. There is a small charge to use the toilet, so be sure to have coins.

*While it was very well stocked and cleaned when I used the bathroom on the way in, it was not when I used it on the way out, so I suggest bringing tissue and hand sanitizer.

Timing:

There is some leeway with entry time, so you will not be turned away if you are a bit past your designated entry time. I arrived at the entrance about 35 minutes after my entry time and it wasn’t an issue at all. I have read they are lenient up to 60-90 minutes, but I don’t know that I would push it that much.

What IS important to be on time for is your additional circuits. Huayna Picchu (Circuit 4) has a longer ascend, so the cut off time is more strict. I learned this the hard way when I wandered around a bit too much and got to the circuit entrance too late. I was instead allowed to ascend Huchuy Picchu, which is the lower peak.

(This is where a guide keeping me on time would have come in handy, but it all worked out in the end).

While I was bummed I could not take my planned ascent, it actually worked out with some weather that came in that would have obstructed the higher view. I also happened to reach the top at the same time as a pair of really cool French-Canadian friends who happened to have lived 45 minutes from me as teenagers (look at the travel gods at work!)

Following your circuit:

The circuits are well marked and pretty easy to follow and explore on your own. There are also site staff throughout to help if you get off track or need a little help.

The ascent for Huchuy Picchu and Huayna Picchu are “easy”, “moderate”, or “challenging” depending on who you ask. There are no guard rails (other than a rope in some areas) and the path can be slippery when raining or misty. If you are not a seasoned, or even occasional, hiker, this is another area in which a guide may be helpful.

Enjoy!

To say I am so glad I made the decision to add a trip to Machu Picchu to my month in Lima would be a serious understatement.

I was in awe from the train ride in to the train ride out of Aguas Calientes and every minute in between. Even without a guide and a ton of historical information and context, I felt connected to the site and it’s magic.

No matter how you do Machu Picchu, make sure to take your time, take all the pictures, breathe the fresh air and enjoy.