Explore North Macedonia: A Journey Through This Balkan Gem
North Macedonia came on to my radar late last year when a few people I follow on Instagram went and shared their experiences. It looked like it had everything I was looking for to spend two and a half weeks between house sits: nature, history, affordable on the US dollar, good weather and good food.
After having been to Serbia, Romania, and Croatia, I have fallen in love with the Balkans and been wanting to explore more of the region.
Leading up to my trip, I saw a few posts about Lake Ohrid and decided to rent a car and take a little road trip and spend two nights there.
I spent the end of April through the first week of May 2024 in Macedonia, that this is how it went:
Trip Details & Cost Breakdown
All bookings and local credit card purchases are in USD. Prices advertised and paid in cash are shown in Euro.
Flights I flew from Manchester to Skopje (with a self-transfer in Geneva) on Easy Jet with checked bag and seat selection $161.50
Airbnb: 16 nights in Skopje in a private duplex apartment $488.00
Hotel: 2 nights in Lake Ohrid paid with credit points equally $77
Villa Kale is a family run hotel situated on the hills surrounding Ohrid Lake. It was pretty no frills, but clean and comfortable and the owners were very kind and welcoming.
Car Rental: 3 days, compact car with manual transmission, from Advant Car (city center) paid with credit card points equivalent to $84
Gas: $44.00 (almost a full tank)
Tolls: Approximately $5. I lost track of how many tolls there were, but it was several and they were each around 40-50MKD. Be sure to have local currency.
Parking: Unfortunately, the validation machine happened to not be working when I left the garage where I parked and I was overcharged by about 100% so parking set me back about € 11 for 11 hours (advertised rate was €.40/hr).
Transportation:
Taxi: I landed in Skopje just after the airport bus stopped running (8:00pm) to the city center. The public transit to my Airbnb was lengthy and Uber does not exist in Macedonia, so I opted to splurge on an overpriced taxi. This set me back 25€ (cash only).
Bus: While the city is well connected by bus, and is a great option to get around, I only took it once to Matka Canyon. I put 100MKD (approx $1.60) on a transit card to cover my trip to Matka with at least one more ride available.
Entrance fees/Activities:
Vodno cable car: €2
Ohrid Lake Sunset boat ride: €10
Ohrid Lake various entry fees: approx €10
Food and drinks: I found eating out in Skopje very affordable. While I didn’t do any high end, or fine dining, I found “mid-range” dining options very budget friendly.
I indulged in one of my favorite foods, burek, for breakfast most days. A very generous portion was $1.25
Dinner at a local restaurant with a main course, large plate of grilled vegetables, beer and water was $15
A delicious veggie burger with fries, local beer and water ranged from $8-$14
An espresso at most cafes was around $1-$1.50 and an accompanying sweet or savory pastry was between $1 and $3.
Souvenirs: I picked up three magnets in the city center for €3, and three “fancy” magnets in Lake Ohrid for €6
I found the prices in Lake Ohrid a bit higher than in Skopje, but that was to be expected as it is a very touristy destination. My one “fancy” meal while in Lake Ohrid, featuring a trout dish, order of bread and cheese, and a beer was a little under $30.
Currency Exchange
Both Skopje and Lake Ohrid were a mix of places that took cards and were cash only, so I recommend having a bit of cash on hand. While some places will take Euro, it is technically illegal for them to do so, and the mark up is pretty significant. MKD is the more widely accepted currency.
I also needed cash for tolls and ended up needing it for the parking.
I initially attempted to obtain cash via ATM withdrawal, but the fees were quite high (between $6-7USD, plus the $5 my bank changes) and your girl is on a budget. I had seen several currency places and asked a Bumble match if they were legit. He said they were, and all no fee and gave a fair exchange, so that is the route I took.
Admittedly, most of the currency exchange places look…. questionable… but I had a great experience at the two that I went to; one being a Western Union that appeared to be in someone’s house next to a gas station (I was really committed to saving on those fees).
They will exchange GBP, Euro, and USD and the current rates must be displayed. A receipt is also required to be provided.
Skopje
Skopje is the capital and largest city of North Macedonia. It is the country's political, cultural, economic, and academic centre. Skopje lies in the Skopje Basin. Scupi is attested for the first time in the second century AD as a city in Roman Dardania.
-Wikipedia-
What to Do
Skopje is a relatively small capital city (though its statues are not), but there is plenty to do in and around the city to easily fill a few days of touring, sightseeing, and relaxing.
These were some of my favorites:
Macedonia Square/City Center
Macedonia Square is the main square of Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia. The square is the biggest in North Macedonia with a total extent of 18,500 m². It is located in the central part of the city, and it crosses the Vardar River.
-Wikipedia-
Macedonia Square is where you will find many restaurants, souvenir vendors, the iconic stone bridge, beautiful architecture, oh, and… statues, so many statues. While the statues remain a bit of a controversy (learn more about that here), the square still has beauty and historical meaning.
On the other side of the Stone Bridge (or any of the other many bridges over the Vardar River), you will find the Macedonian National Theatre (MNT), the Macedonian Philharmonic, and the National Opera and Ballet. I was hopeful to catch a performance on my visit, but due to holidays and scheduling, didn’t have the opportunity to.
This is a common meeting points for tours and is the perfect spot to start exploring the city from.
The Old Bazaar
The Old Bazaar also known as Turkish Bazaar is a bazaar located in Skopje, North Macedonia, situated on the eastern bank of the Vardar River, stretching from the Stone Bridge to the Bit-Pazar and from the Skopje Fortress to the Serava river
-Wikipedia-
🗺️MK, Skopje 1000, North Macedonia
The Old Bazaar is like teleporting to Turkiye. Lined with cafes, restaurants, shops, and Turkish coffee at every turn, this lively area is a great place to wander through, grab a bite or drink and take in all the sights and smells. There is also a large market with fresh fruits and veggies, spices, clothes, shoes and all kinds of trinkets and gadgets.
Skopje Fortress
The Skopje Fortress, commonly referred to as Kale, is a historic fortress located in the old town of Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia. It is located in Center municipality and situated on the highest point in the city overlooking the Vardar River.
-Wikipedia-
🗺️Samoilova 1000, Hattusa 1000, North Macedonia
🕰️7a-5p daily
💶Free
The Skopje Fortress offers stunning views of the city, Vardar River, and all the way to Vodno Mountain and the Millennium Cross. It is a bit of an uphill hike to get to the fortress, but the views are well worth it. There is a small parking lot at the Fortress as well if you choose to drive.
Millennium Cross Cable Car
🗺️1000, North Macedonia
🕰️Tues-Sat 10a-5pm, Sun-closed (see photo for operating hours)
💶120 MKD/€2 Round trip
The cable car runs from Middle Vodno, then ascends to the top of the 1,066M top of Vodno. Middle Vodno is accessible by car, bus, or hiking from the base of Vodno.
🚌Bus: Take Bus #25 from Skopje Center up to Middle Vodno. It is a short walk to the cable car from the bus stop.
🚗Drive: There is a parking lot at Middle Vodno with a good amount of parking. The park and cable car and just a few minute walk from the parking lot.
🚕Taxi: You can take a taxi from the city center for a just a few dollars. Getting a taxi on the return may be difficult - I didn’t see any taxis at the top when I was leaving, but this may be different during peak season.
🥾Hike: There are several trails from the base of Vodno that will take you up to middle Vodno where you can catch the cable car the rest of the way up. I opted for hike and took approximately an hour to reach middle Vodno.
🚐Tour: Vodno mountain and the cable car are included in many Skopje tours and can be combined with Matka Canyon
Middle Vodno has a few shops with snacks, drinks, beer, ice cream, etc, as well as a bathroom (though not glamorous), and a small cafe. There is a picnic area and children’s play area as well.
The cable car ride is approximately 8 minutes and offers stunning views of the city and mountain. At the top, there is a cafe and bathrooms, as well as several picnic areas for a picnic with an unbelievable view. There are also many hiking, walking, and mountain biking trails.
And, of course, there is the Millennium Cross, which can be seen all the way from the city center.
The Millennium Cross is a 66-metre tall cross situated on the top of Vodno Mountain in North Macedonia above the capital city of Skopje. Built in 2002, it is one of the tallest crosses worldwide.
-Wikipedia-
You could easily spend 10 minutes or several hours at the top.
Vodno Mountain
Vodno is a mountain in North Macedonia. It is located in the northern part of the country, to the southwest of the capital city Skopje. The highest point of the mountain is at Krstovar peak, on 1066 meters and the submontane is on 337 meters
-Wikipedia-
I love cities that have a city feel, but also have accessible nature, hiking and views and Skopje delivers on that. Vodno is just a few minutes’ drive, short bus ride via the No 25, or a solid walk from the city and delivers on all of these things. Even if you skip the Millennium Cross cable car, the park alone is worth visiting.
There are numerous hiking trails ranging from easy to moderate that offer incredible views and an escape from the city, as well as parking lots up the winding mountain to stop and take in the views or have a picnic at one of the many picnic tables. The sunset views are also quite remarkable.
The trails are also well outlined in Google Maps walking instructions.
Church of Saint Clement of Ohrid
The Church of Saint Clement of Ohrid often called simply Soborna Crkva, located in Skopje, North Macedonia is the largest cathedral of the Macedonian Orthodox Church today.
🗺️Blvd. Partizanski Odredi 17, Skopje 1000, North Macedonia
🕰️Open to visitors: Mon-Fri 6a-8p, Sat 6a-5p, Sun 6a-12p
Even if you take out the religious and historical aspects of this striking building, the architecture and art are worth the visit alone. Even from across the street, Soborna Crkva is a sight to behold, but then once you get inside the ornate and intricate detail is truly breathtaking.
Day Trip to Matka Canyon
Matka is a canyon located west of central Skopje, North Macedonia. Covering roughly 5,000 hectares, Matka is one of the most popular outdoor destinations in North Macedonia and is home to several medieval monasteries. The Matka Lake within the Matka Canyon is the oldest artificial lake in the country.
-Wikipedia-
Matka Canyon was one of the highlights of my time in Skopje. To say it is beautiful is an understatement.
Just 16km outside Skopje, Matka Canyon truly feels like another world. This is the perfect day, or half day, trip from Skopje for anyone looking to take in stunning nature, walk the nature trail, take a boat ride or kayak, enjoy a beautiful cocktail in a stunning setting, or all of the above.
How to get to Matka
🚗Drive: The drive from Skopje is approximately 30 minutes. Parking is available, but limited.
🚕Taxi: A taxi from Skopje to Matka Canyon is quite affordable at about $12 each way. There are taxis at Matka for the return journey as well. Be cautious that many taxi drivers will charge inflated rates to tourists and may insist on payment in Euros, or a set rate and not the meter.
🚌Bus: The N60 Bus takes about an hour, and runs from the Skopje Bus Station several times per day, as follows
Times of departures from Skopje main bus station: 7:00 / 8:45 / 10:30 / 12:10 / 13:50 / 17:10 / 18:45 / 20:15 / 22:30. Return from Matka to Skopje: 11:20 / 13:00 / 14:55 / 16:25 / 17:45 / 19:20 / 21:00
I recommend being on time for the bus, as they only run so often, however; they are notoriously late. My bus departing Skopje was 20 minutes late and my returning bus was nearly 30 minutes late.
The bus does stop along Blvd Partizanski Odredi, but the bus routes are not on Google Maps so it can be a bit tricky to figure out where the stops are. I walked all the way to The Skopje Bus Station just to realize there was a stop right outside my Airbnb.
🎟️Bus tickets: The bus costs 35 dinar (MKD) each way ($0.65). You will need to buy a Skopje public transport card and put money on (denominations of 100s). There is a stand at the entrance (with a clerk) to purchase a card and a 100 MKD card will cover your round-trip fare with 30 MKD remaining. Cash (MKD) and card are accepted.
What to do at Matka Canyon
Matka really has something for everyone who wants an outdoor experience; active or relaxing.
🛶Boat: If you want to be on the lake, there are several boat options, from private rides to group tours. There are also kayak and stand up paddle board rentals available, all for very reasonable prices.
🥾Hike: If you want to do some light hiking you can take the trail around the lake for some amazing views. Note: the trail does not loop, so you will have to turn around at the end and head back.
🍹Eat/Drink: Enjoy a delicious meal, beer or coktail, dessert, or coffee at Matka Canyon Restaurant over looking the lake.
☀️Sunbathe/swim: There is an area of the lake near the entrance where folks come to sunbathe and swim.
Whatever you decide to do with your time at Matka Canyon, it will be an experience to remember and a highlight of your trip.
Lake Ohrid
Lake Ohrid is a lake which straddles the mountainous border between the southwestern part of North Macedonia and eastern Albania. It is one of Europe's deepest and oldest lakes, with a unique aquatic ecosystem of worldwide importance, with more than 200 endemic species.
-Wikipedia-
Lake Ohrid is the perfect addition to a trip to Skopje, or a destination in and of itself. Just about a 3 hour drive, or bus ride, from Skopje, Lake Ohrid is like being in a completely different world. It has a very touristic feel, without feeling artificial or overly commercial.
How to get to Ohrid from Skopje
🚗Drive: The direct route from Skopje to Ohrid is just under 3 hours. I opted to drive because I wanted the flexibility to be on my own timeline and veer off to take in sights along the way.
Including 3 day car rental (compact, manual transmission), gas, and tolls, my total was: $133
The only downside to having a car was the parking in Ohrid. It was a bit of a challenge in Early May, so I can imagine it is very challenging in the summer months.
🚌Bus: There are a few bus options from Skopje to Lake Ohrid with some bus services running every 3 hours and others running two days per week. Depending on company and route, roundtrip tickets range from 14€–19€ and the journey takes anywhere from 2 hours and 45 minutes to 4 hours.
For bus options and schedules, check out Rome2Rio.
What to do in Lake Ohrid
When planning my trip to Lake Ohrid, I saw several people say it could be done as a day trip. I personally think Ohrid warrants at least an overnight. I also think that 3 hours each way is too much for a day trip, but if you are up for it or on a super tight timeline, it’s worth the trip!
I had originally planned to spend one night in Ohrid, but extended to 2 because I wanted to take my time and visit Lake Kozjak on the return. I am glad I did.
Samoil's (Samuel) Fortress
Samuel's Fortress is a fortress in the old town of Ohrid, North Macedonia. It was the capital of the First Bulgarian Empire during the rule of Tsar Samuel of Bulgaria at the turn of the 11th century.
-wikipedia-
🗺️4Q7R+QHR, Ohrid, North Macedonia
💶120MKD (about €2.50)
🕰️Tues-Sun 9a-3p Mon - closed
Views on top of views with a side of views. Samoil’s Fortress offers incredible 360 views of Lake Ohrid and if you have a clear day, they are absolutely breathtaking. It does require a bit of an uphill climb, and navigating some stairs inside to get those views, but they are well worth it.
The Fortress is spread out enough that is doesn’t feel especially crowded and you can take as much or as little time as you like.
Churches
Church of Saint John the Theologian
Saint John the Theologian, Kaneo or simply Saint John at Kaneo is a Macedonian Orthodox church situated on the cliff over Kaneo Beach overlooking Lake Ohrid in the city of Ohrid, North Macedonia
-Wikipedia-
🗺️4Q6Q+CGJ, Kocho Racin, Ohrid 6000, North Macedonia
💶100MKD (€2) to visit the interior
This 13th century church is beautiful on its own, but then when you factor in the setting and views: it is absolutely stunning. There are picnic areas that overlook the church and many people gather here to take in the sunset as it gives incredible views of the lake. I got so caught up with the outside and the views, I neglected to go inside.
Church of Saint Sophia
The Church of Saint Sophia is a church in Ohrid, North Macedonia. The church is one of the most important monuments of North Macedonia, housing architecture and art from the Middle Ages.
-Wikipedia-
💶100MKD (€2) to visit the interior
Normally, I appreciate churches for their architecture and ornate decor, but it was the paintings and artwork in The Church of Saint Sophia that truly had me in awe. Beautifully preserved and holding so much history, these relics are truly remarkable and worth a visit.
Admittedly, I was too busy with the turtles and dogs in the courtyard to take photos of the exterior, but I assure you it is also beautiful.
Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon
The Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon is a Byzantine church situated on Plaošnik in Ohrid, North Macedonia. It is attributed to Saint Clement of Ohrid, a disciple of Saint Cyril and Saint Methodius.
-Wikipedia-
🗺️4Q7R+F5X, MK, Kuzman Kapidan, Ohrid 6000, North Macedonia
💶100MKD (2€)
🕰️Daily 8a-7p
Just a short walk from the Fortress, the Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon comes in to view as you come down the hill and is a stunning sight. The church alone is striking, but the addition of the lake and mountain backdrop really takes it to the next level. Access to the grounds (including small ruins) and entry to the church are included in the 100MKD free.
Currently (May 2024) there is some renovation work taking place on some of the other buildings on the grounds, but those are generally open to visitors as well.
Take a Boat Ride
Probably the most popular activity in Lake Ohrid is hopping in a boat and taking a cruise around the lake. There are several options for boat rides available.
Sites like Viator and Get Your Guide have several pre-book options from 1 hour tours to full day tours that stop at numerous locations. These can range anywhere from about €25 to €110+. There are options for both private and group tours.
It is also possible to hire a boat right from the dock, with numerous pontoon boats, water taxis, and small sailboats lined up along the lakefront. These also come at varying price points, but the average seemed to be €25 per person for a quick spin around the lake.
There are also stands near the dock with people selling tours that can be booked in the morning of for the next day.
If you are looking for a budget friendly or livelier atmosphere, there are also large group “tours” available. These are really just “out and back” boat rides, but are great options for friend groups, solo travelers, anyone on a budget (at only €10) or anyone who isn’t interested in a guided tour or the informational aspect.
I opted to do one of these group boat rides and am so glad I chose the sunset sail.
Since I was in Lake Ohrid solo, I was hesitant to join a small boat ride and be an oddball in a small group and didn’t want to prebook and be committed to a time or duration. The large group rides seemed like a fun option, and then I saw that there was a sunset option for only €10 (with a glass of champagne! Sold!). I bought my ticket at 4:30p and was told to arrive at 6:30p for a 7:00p take off.
I would recommend buying tickets a bit further in advance, especially with a larger party.
Honestly, I had low expectations for this boat ride. I was expecting a total party scene with loud music and a full party atmosphere. To my very pleasant surprise, and that of the lovely ladies I was sat with, it was actually a calm and really lovely experience.
There was soft music playing, table service, and an overall grown but fun vibe.
And… the views!
The views were stunning as the sunset on the lake during the 90 minutes we were on the water enjoying our complimentary champagne and very reasonably priced drinks.
Take a Walk Around the Lake
Okay, “around the lake” might be an overstatement, because it is huge, but you can take a walk (or ride a bicycle or scooter) along the lake. There is a great paved pedestrian walkway that runs along with the lake with plenty of places to stop for a bite or drink or just to snap some photos or enjoy the views.
There are bars and restaurants around the Lake, as well as parks and play areas. If you continue a bit of a way, you will eventually find lakefront beaches and picnic areas as well.
Go To The Beach
While I didn’t properly go to the beach while in Lake Ohrid, I did walk past a couple of them and can imagine they are pretty amazing in the right weather season and weather.
Some of the most popular beaches in Lake Ohrid:
Kaneo Beach.
Gradishte Beach-Fun for the Whole Family.
Potpes Beach-Nature's Hidden Gem.
Cuba Libre Beach.
St. Stefan Beach.
Lagadin Beach: A Quaint Lakeside Retreat.
Labino Beach: An Oasis of Tranquility.
Trpejca Beach: Authentic Village Charm
Museum: The Bay of Bones
I can’t recommend that Bay of Bones Museum form personal experience, since I didn’t actually go, but I really wanted to and you should go so I can live vicariously through you.
not my photo
I planned to drive there and visit the morning I was leaving Lake Ohrid, but I didn’t manage enough time and ended up, regrettably, skipping it.
This reconstructed village of stilt houses displaying Bronze & Iron Age items recovered from Lake Ohrid can be reached by car or by boat, and is included in many day boat tours.
Kozjak Lake
Lake Kozjak is a paradise for recreationalists, mountaineers, cyclists and visitors who have the opportunity to enjoy clean mountain air and untouched nature.
🗺️ (view point) V35V+JG, Gurgurnitsa, North Macedonia
Lake Kozjak didn’t come up on any of my (minimal) North Macedonia research, and even trying to find information about it knowing it exists, is a bit tricky.
I would not have known it existed if a Bumble match hadn’t recommended it. He did offer a warning, that it would put Matka Canyon to shame, and he was not wrong.
After he sent me some photos, I looked up some images on IG and found what I could online, I decided to add Lake Kozjak to my road trip to Lake Ohrid and am so glad I did.
This manmade lake, surrounded by the most picturesque mountain ranges is truly stunning. As a bonus, it is only reachable by car, so it is not a tourist hotspot like Matka or Ohrid, making it a peaceful retreat.
Coming from Ohrid, the road winding up the mountain and around the lake is paved, but only 3 meters wide in many spots, so caution and patience is required.
The drive up takes about an hour and half and there is a viewpoint on the descent, heading back to Skopje, however, as I learned: there is a gate that you must pass and it is only open at certain times of the day (and not necessarily the ones posted on the sign). When I reached the gate, it was not open for another four hours. I ended up giving up on the view point, which was fine by me as the views I had on the way up were phenomenal, and driving back down and around.
There are some incredible hiking areas and swimming at Lake Kozjak as well. If you have a car, I cannot recommend adding Lake Kozjak to your North Macedonia itinerary enough.
Whether you are visiting North Macedonia on its own, or as part of a Balkans trip, make sure to take your time and enjoy all the amazing things this too-often-overlooked country has to offer.
There is so much natural beauty, the people are kind, and the food is delicious, all while being very affordable on the tourist dollar.
